Frequently Asked Questions

This Old House's Rock Hill guide puts a typical removal between about $247 and $1,086, with an average near $507, and emergency removals around $1,300. National 2026 guides from Angi and HomeGuide put most removals between $200 and $2,000, with large trees over 80 feet higher. Height, lean, what is under the tree and whether it is dead all move the price. Your written estimate is the price.

For a tree entirely on your own residential lot, the city's tree ordinance generally does not require a permit. Street trees and trees on city property are public trees, and removing or pruning them needs a permit from the city forester. If the removal is part of construction or development, ask Planning and Development about the heritage tree rules first. HOAs in many Rock Hill subdivisions also have their own approval process, so check your covenants.

Trees in contact with a primary line belong to the electric provider, so call the number on your power bill and stay at least 10 feet away. For the service drop that runs from the pole to your house, Duke Energy, for example, will turn off the line at no cost so a tree crew can work safely. We will not cut a tree that is in contact with an energized line.

No. Rock Hill's rules say debris from a large tree removal or land clearing is not collected at the curb, and limbs over 12 feet long or 6 inches thick need a special pickup even from routine yard work. That is why hauling is written into our quotes. If you want to keep firewood or chips, we leave them where you ask.

Yes. If you are in Rock Hill or nearby York County and a tree has fallen on your house, car or driveway, call (803) 752-2370 any time to leave details and photos. Trees on roofs and trees blocking the only way in or out are handled first. If wires are involved, call the utility before anyone touches the tree.

Not always. A healthy, well-rooted pine can stand for decades, but a pine that leans toward the house, has lost roots to construction, shows brown or fading needles, or has small pitch tubes on the bark from beetles is a different story. We look at the root zone, the lean and the crown and tell you honestly whether it needs to come out or just needs a few limbs removed.

Bradford pears are prone to splitting at their narrow forks, and older ones often lose half the tree in a storm. Clemson Extension runs a Bradford pear bounty that trades up to five removed pears for free native trees, with a 2027 swap scheduled in Fort Mill. We can take the tree down and grind the stump, and you can sign up for the bounty yourself.

A small ornamental tree can be down and cleaned up in an hour or two. A large pine or oak taken down in sections over a house usually takes most of a day, and several big trees can take two. The quote gives you an idea of the time involved.

Not necessarily, as long as the crew can reach the tree, gates are unlocked and cars are moved out of the work area. Many homeowners like to be there at the start to confirm which trees are coming down and where the wood should go.

A tree whose trunk straddles the line is generally shared, so both owners should agree in writing before it is removed. If the trunk is fully on your side, you can usually remove it, and limbs over your side can be cut back to the line. We ask about the line during the estimate.

Any time works for a tree that has to go, but late fall and winter are often easiest. The leaves are off hardwoods, the ground is less likely to be baked hard or soaked from summer storms, and there is less risk to garden beds. Hazardous trees should not wait for a season.

It depends on your homeowner's policy. Many policies help with removal when a tree damages a covered structure, and pay little or nothing when a tree falls in an open yard. Call your agent, take photos before anything is moved, and keep the written quote and invoice.

In many cases the owner of the property where the tree landed files with their own insurer, unless the tree was obviously dead or hazardous and the neighbor was warned. That is a question for your agent, not a tree company, but we can document the tree's condition when we remove it.

Not while the line is energized. The utility has to clear the line or shut it off first. Once the line is safe, we can take the rest of the tree down and handle the wood the utility leaves behind.

Small limbs lying flat on the ground are usually fine for a careful homeowner. Trunks under tension, trees resting on other trees or a roof, and anything near wires are not. Wood under tension can spring when cut and cause serious injury.

Usually it's a combination of size, condition and what's underneath. A large tree over a roof with no room to lower pieces, or a dead or cracked tree a climber can't safely tie into, is a likely crane job. We will tell you at the estimate.

Outriggers spread the weight onto mats, which protects most driveways and lawns. Very soft ground after heavy rain is a reason to wait a few days. We look at the setup spot during the estimate and flag any concern.

Often, yes, especially on subdivision lots with short driveways. That can mean blocking part of a lane for a few hours, cones, and letting neighbors know.

Yes, and that is often the best value, since setting up the crane is a big part of the cost. Trees close together behind a house can often be done in one day from one setup.

In winter, scratch a small spot of bark on a twig with your thumbnail. Green underneath means it is alive; brown and dry means that part is dead. For pines, brown needles in summer are a clear sign of trouble. If you are unsure, we can look at it during an estimate.

No. Once a pine's crown has turned red or brown from beetles or drought, the tree is dead. What matters is taking it down before it gets brittle, and checking nearby pines for signs of attack.

It depends on how much sound wood is left around the hollow and what the tree could hit. A small cavity in a big trunk may not be a problem; a thin shell holding up a heavy crown over a house is. We look at the size of the cavity, the lean and the target.

Clemson Extension says insecticide treatment can protect valuable ash trees, ideally before they are infested, and that it is repeated every year or two for the life of the tree. Treatment should be applied by a licensed pesticide applicator. Trees that are already heavily infested usually need to come down.

Late winter, before spring growth, is a good time for most hardwoods, since the structure is easy to see and the tree is about to grow. Dead and broken limbs can be removed any time. Heavy pruning in the heat of summer adds stress to trees already coping with drought.

Most mature shade trees do well with pruning every three to five years. Young trees benefit from lighter structural pruning more often. Trees over roofs may need clearance every couple of years.

Generally, you can trim limbs back to the property line, as long as you don't damage the tree or go onto the neighbor's property. Talking to your neighbor first avoids disputes, and heavy cuts that kill or badly damage the tree can cause legal problems.

Removing deadwood and reducing heavy end weight on long limbs lowers the chance of breakage. Pruning can't fix a rotting trunk or a failing root system, though. If a tree has those problems, removal may be the safer choice.

Right away, once the chips are removed and topsoil is added. Wood chips left in the hole break down and use nitrogen, so grass grows poorly directly on them. Removing most of the chips and adding topsoil works best.

It's better to plant a few feet away. The old root system and leftover wood take years to break down, and new roots have an easier time in fresh soil.

For most trees, yes; without the trunk and leaves the roots die and slowly rot. Sweetgums, Bradford pears and some other trees may send up sprouts from roots for a season or two, which can be mowed or cut until they stop.

Only if it is on the quote. Many tree removal prices don't include the stump, so ask. Our quotes list stump grinding as its own line so you can choose.